On|Off interviewed Jayne Pierson about her AW11 show ‘Kingdom of Shadows,’ at On|Off.
What was the inspiration for your AW11 collection?
T.S. Eliot’s poem ‘The place where dreams cross,’ along with the photography of Joel Peter Witkin (1980’s-90’s) Nan Goldin and films by Kubrick, Cronenburg.
Can you describe the look of the collection?
The collection focuses on the silhouette and juxtaposing the two opposites of restrained tailoring and freeform drape, whilst flattering the female form with premium finishes and high end conceptual designs. Leather and silk taffeta are used, bandages of patent squares cover shoulders, restrict neck collars and bind wrists, along with sheer fabrics that cover and expose in equal measures.
Who would you love to see wearing your collection?
What is On for you?
The past and present in equal measures.
What is Off for you?
Trying too hard.
What attracted you to show at On|Off?
heir credible reputation to highlight innovative talent every season.
What appeals about On|Off as a venue?
t’s marketed so well with a slick presentation and central location.
Why do you think On|Off is important for LFW?
It has a fantastic reputation and is unique in showing on and off schedule designers together, thereby showcasing new designers in a platform that would be impossible for them to access in any other way.
Fashion For The Brave. The catwalk show held at the Dorchester Hotel, London and styled by The Daily Telegraph’s Hilary Alexander, featured looks from the Jayne Pierson S/S 2011 Twin Parallel Collection. The show was sponsored by Range Rover for the charity, Help for Heroes :
Diana Vickers came to On|Off to see the Jayne Pierson Collection S/S 2011. Diana was just the sweetest girl and so naturally gorgeous we couldn’t help but fall for her. We followed her path from sucXess factor to Little Voice and loved her style…watch this space girls!!
Anna Wintour made a surprise appearance at On|Off during London Fashion Week. Here is a picture of Jayne Pierson talking to her and giving her the Lookbook for her new S/S 2011 Twin Parallel Collection. Needless to say everyone was on best behaviour!
One of the benefits of being in with the Amelia’s crew is the opportunity to be whisked away to a show or two each London Fashion Week. This was the case on Friday night as I tagged along with Matt and Amelia, only to be herded into the surprisingly over subscribed and crowded, yet rather disappointing Kingston MA show at Freemasons Hall. To make amends, I was politely asked (*cough* coerced) to attend the last presentation of the evening – Jayne Pierson. I’m glad I accepted as I was in for a treat.
While the space was, again, full to the rafters with onlookers, I managed a front row seat in this decidedly more intimate On|Off venue. A much more relaxed and civilised mood prevailed as we awaited the show to begin, with many enjoying the refreshments from goody bags available to all (more on this later). To get us in the mood, the presentation was buffered on either side by a Pierson video promo, resplendent with onions, pears, cherries, a melon, and a dead swan. Models-cum-actresses performed such interesting tasks as playing with hosiery, pouring water into glasses and at one point even appeared to eat – and bread at that (think of the carbs!). The Justin Anderson video took cues from Peter Greenaway, which was incredibly fitting as the clothes and models that then appeared could easily find leading roles in a Greenaway masterpiece.
First to be presented were two bell-hop military inspired leather dresses, more than a little naughty, but in a sit up and say yes ma’am kind of way. Form hugging and cut slightly above the knee, both showed in buttery grey leather, with just a hint of lilac for depth. Buttons, trim and tailored accents were highlighted with gold. These set the stage for the luxe appeal of the rest of the show.
Pierson’s signature puff sleeves abounded, finding their way onto bolero jackets, a scrumptious gold pleated high collar blouson and corseted dresses. Fabrications throughout pushed the luxe factor, with bold stripes, textured creams, deep blues and midnight leathers always iridescent and shimmering. To compliment and max these, gold made bold entries and statement pieces, almost always in leather, and with stunning effect. Tailoring was precise, playing between slim and fitted and puffed and extravagant. Dress lengths played around the knee with two gowns falling full length to the ankle. Overall, the feel was baroque meets late 80s-early 90s with a futuristic flair. Not for the faint hearted, but for those with confidence and attitude to match.
I fantasise that the woman Pierson dresses is strong, extravagant, confident in her sexuality and not afraid to play with it more than a little rather knowingly. WLTM!!
And a note on those goody bags – it was great to come away with some goodies for us guys – thank you team Pierson and Elemis. Marvellous.
Written by Gavin Mackie on Sunday September 19th, 2010 8:58 pm
With a cuckoo clock chiming in the background, the Jayne Pierson show began with a collaborative film by Justin Anderson of Mustard studios. In this charming display the girls exchanged glances at one another over a period dinner party table whilst another clutched at a dead gooses’ neck in a tight gold leather dress. A parallel in time and encapsulating moments was the story here with soft underpinnings of sexuality and youth making it an interesting theme to contemplate.
Hair and beauty was particularly striking with a rolled metal mesh encasing brushed out buns and slicks of blue and gold framing the eyes. The silhouette had dramatic volume in places, with the perfect example being an extraordinary boned jacket that resembled an 18th Century pannier style.
I loved the high shine gold, foiled leather that was soft and tactile placed next to razor pleats and sheet metal grey hues seen in our LFW Preview Issue’s Beauty Editorial. Stripe was the adornment of choice for SS’11 with a distinct period style merged with edgy two tone taffeta that shimmered next to matte lather and sexy sheer bodies. Accessories by Nick King (in collaboration with Jayne) had the Midas touch too where gold leaf that was still flaky and delicate at the edges layered onto thick transparent collars adding a contemporary twist alongside slim legged jumpsuits and mutton sleeves.